When to Mow Your Lawn in Eldersburg MD?
When to Mow Your Lawn in Eldersburg MD? One minute your lawn has that freshly mowed look, and the next you look outside and it feels like you have a mini-jungle growing in your bac
One minute your lawn has that freshly mowed look, and the next you look outside and it feels like you have a mini-jungle growing in your backyard. You could have sworn that you only mowed the lawn a week or two ago, but the actual time might be much longer. Regardless, mowing is still your only option. Only now, you have to mow while pushing through grass that is far longer (and thicker) than you’d like.
This unexpected growth can be a real hassle, leaving you wondering when to mow to avoid this situation in the future. Let’s explore the answers together.
The most obvious cue that it’s time to mow your lawn comes visually. You know that already – higher grass means it’s time to start mowing. But what’s the difference between grass that is high enough to cut easily and grass that is so high it will be difficult to cut properly?
Let’s take a look at fescue, generally the grass of choice in Maryland. It’s certainly the most recommended grass according to the University of Maryland because of how well it grows in practically all regions of the state.
When it comes to fescue, you will have a choice between fine and tall. For fine fescue, an ideal height is between 1 and 3 inches. Tall fescue – as the name implies – can grow a little taller. Aim for about 2.5 inches during the cooler months and up to 4 inches in summer. You’ll want the grass to grow longer in the summer because fescue is a cool-season grass that feels the stress when you cut it too often or too short. Letting it grow to a taller height allows its roots to dig deeper into your yard’s soil. Those longer roots deliver more water to your fescue grass, leading to healthier grass overall.
As for when to mow, wait until your grass blades are about a third taller than what you want them to be. For colder months, that would mean around 3.3 inches. In summer, wait until your grass is about 5.3 inches so you can guarantee it’s getting the most out of your soil in dryer months.
Sticking with visual cues, seeing footprints in your grass after you walk on it is generally a good indicator that it’s time to mow. However, I’d advise caution with this indicator. Assuming you’re like most Marylanders and have fescue grass, footprints can be a good visual cue during cooler months. That’s when you want your grass to be shorter – remember 1 to 3 inches – so seeing footprints should be cause for concern.
In the summer, you’ll generally have longer grass for the health reasons I mentioned earlier. Having 4 inches of fescue in summer is a recipe for leaving footprints behind in your yard, but not necessarily a sign that the grass is ready to be cut. Use your discretion and combine the general rule of footprints being an indicator with the more precise grass measurements I mentioned earlier to figure out when to mow.
From the grass-related aspects of when to mow, I’ll move onto something a little more tangible – the weather. Specifically, finding the right conditions for a little lawn care versus conditions that lead to you tearing up your lawn and damaging your mower.
Wet weather is never ideal for lawn mowing. Take it from me because this rule has helped me to preserve many a lawnmower over the years. Wet grass getting into your mower’s inner workings clogs things up, especially when you’re running a consumer-grade mower. Clogs lead to overheating. A hot lawnmower shuts off more often and is at greater risk of breaking down due to excessive heat damaging components.
There’s also the grass aspect to consider when you try to mow while your lawn is wet. Sodden grass is difficult to cut in the first place, and only becomes more difficult the taller it gets. The fescue that is the grass of choice for Maryland will be a challenge as a result because you’ll leave that grass to grow longer than you would for other varieties. Even cuts are also difficult to achieve when your grass is wet. The mower blades may tear at the grass, resulting in an uneven cut with some areas shorter than others.
Sticking with temperature, my landscaping career has revealed that there are ideal temperatures to mow. You want the grass to be cool without it being so cold that it’s at the point where it isn’t growing. Around 50 degrees Fahrenheit is a good “low-end” temperature. Any lower and your grass is already at the point where it isn’t growing and you risk causing damage with your mower.
Cool, in this instance, is anywhere between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Your lawn will be in the perfect condition to mow because your grass isn’t dealing with the constant stress of trying to find water when the sun is beating down. The soil won’t be as dehydrated and your grass will be in a better state than it is when it’s hotter. It all adds up to healthier grass both before and after you mow.
My final piece of advice is to avoid over-mowing your lawn. By that, I mean setting your lawnmower to the lowest possible blade setting to get your grass as short as possible. That’s not just a recipe for a clogged mower – it also damages your grass by causing shallow rooting and making your lawn more susceptible to drought. A good mid-range blade setting is my recommendation. Shoot for a blade that cuts to 2 or 3 inches, depending on the season. This mid-range setting promotes healthy grass growth and helps you establish a consistent mowing schedule.
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